Monday, January 12, 2015

Ruby/Red's Cloak from Once Upon a Time


Quite awhile ago a commentator on this blog left me a link to some red brocade they believed was quite close to Ruby's cloak on "Once Upon a Time." When I got a commission to replicate this cloak, my customer was willing to go with the $25 per yard price tag and when it arrived, lo and behold, I realized it was the exact same fabric used by the show's costumers! And wow, was it ever amazing! It's a damask velvet, polyester but very soft to the touch, and extremely thick and heavy. 


I am no longer taking commissions for this Cloak. HERE'S WHY

(You can find the fabric here for $27 per yard or search for "Neiman Marcus Red Jacquard" or "Red Velvet Damask." You can also sometimes find it here for $20 a yard.)


The fabric likes to fray (as anything velvety does) so I serge every single seam. Huzzah for sergers. In the picture above you can also see the interfacing we use for the hood brim and cloak border to give it the structure seen on the show's version.


Velvet is so interesting to work with, and velvet damask even more so!


It takes between 5 and 6 yards to make this cloak nice and full - and since it is a directional print, it requires some specific fussy laying out.


There is so much of this fabric, that it is way easier to use pattern weights (I use tuna cans) rather than pin it down.


I don't actually have my own replica of this cloak. However, I did make (finished with a friend's help!) a white version for my wedding:


(Why am I outside on a January night? Read more here if you want the story!)


Back to business. Both layers of the cloak have to have level hems before being sewn together. This can be easier to accomplish if I put the dressform up on one of my sewing tables.


A wise woman once gave me this tip: when gathering heavy fabric, don't use a basting stitch. Instead, zigzag over some dental floss, then pull the floss to gather as desired. This eliminates the high risk of thread breakage.


What was I gathering on this project? The hem of the cloak, so that it could be folded up and eased into the higher and thus shorter hem of the lining.


here you can see everything lined up, with the damask coming up on the inside to meet the lining.


Red has two cloaks on the show, and the damask cloak has two incarnations, one of them a repaired version. We decided to go with the undamaged version as it was simpler to work with. I didn't have to cut and rotate panels on the bottom, but I did still have to add borders along the front openings.

Her actual cloak also includes a ripple hem, which is a ton more work and which only took replicating once to realize I didn't want to do it again.


You can read more about the ruffle version here, but please don't ask me for a commission quote on making a second one!


As close inspection of pictures revealed, the show's version included slits in the side front seams for the wearer's hands to emerge. I did a couple different variations to figure out the best method for binding the slits.


This was okay, but difficult to keep smooth and very time consuming. So I decided to finish them in the same method that you would do a bound buttonhole. It worked a lot better. This required narrower seam allowances - too narrow for serging, so...





All that was left was to sew the hood and cape together, and cover that final seam with a lovely red ribbon!


Voila! Look at all that scarlet!






I am no longer taking commissions for this cloaks (or any cloaks). Here's why.


32 comments:

  1. That is GORGEOUS. If you ever come across the fabric they used for Belle's cloak in OUaT, I want to commission one.

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    Replies
    1. http://www.doodlecraft.blogspot.de/2013/12/once-upon-time-belles-traveling-cape.html

      she might know... ^^

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  2. I've been searching for that cloak and found nothing but your site and I want one, what can I do to get one.

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  3. Alexis, please send me an e-mail at elenatintil [at] gmail [dot] com and I'll giv eyou a quote.

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  4. Can you please tell me where this fabric was purchaced? I am making my own Ruby cape for a school project and would love to use the actual fabric :D

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  5. I would like to buy this for my Halloween costume. Where can i get the fabric?

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  6. The link to a source for this fabric is at the very beginning of this blog post.

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  7. Red's cloak actually has a different pattern around the hem. the bottom two feet of cloak are a different fabric. it's subtle but you can see it in the show.

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  8. Yes, it is patched. My customer and I decided we'd go with the 'new' version of the cloak, as it was less work and we liked the finished product better.

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  9. Hey, could you maybe post a tutorial on the hood? What dimensions did you use for it? I'm trying to make a cloak and I think I messed up the hood part.
    This is a gorgeous cloak!

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  10. Did you line this cloak? I don't know if it's lined in the show and was wondering if you did.

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  11. Please disregard my last inquiry. I looked more closely at the photos and saw that it was lined. Sorry.

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  12. Waou... The cloak is really beautiful...
    Great job ..

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  13. Hey, i really want to make this cloak but I was wondering if 5 yards will be enough for someone who is 5'5/5'6?

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  14. I will create a replica for you if you commission one. check out this page to see how it all works: http://seamstressconfessions.blogspot.com/p/commission-costume.html

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  15. Bonjour,je voulais savoir si vous vendez vos creations parce que je voudrais bien acheter votre robe ou une autre de once upon je recherchais un identique et c'est la seul que j'ai trouvé. J'adore once upon a time et votre création aussi alors s'il vous plait aidez moi a en confectionner une. Merci beaucoup pour cette photo.

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  16. I love this cloak. If you were to sell that exact one how much would it cost?

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  17. Hey, I am wondering how much one of these would cost if you make it for someone 5'7? I am really looking for this exact cloak for my ruby red cloak- halloween costume. I put off being ruby red for halloween last year as I could not find a cloak. I ended up being Rosie the Riveter instead *still fun* but I am wondering the cost of this? and how fast you could ship it to BC, Canada. MY email is sarahannabeth@gmail.com

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    Replies
    1. Sarah, you need to submit a cost query. Thanks. :)

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  18. Im sure you have many requests i just would like to know how i could put an order for this red cloak in for myself? I understand it will be pricy and take a whike so i just really want to get my order in as soon as possible. I dont know how i found this so im leaving my email and i hope to hear from you

    Tristatammik@yahoo.com thank you for your time

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  19. I saw your post saying that you no longer make them, Idk how long ago that was so I thought maybe I would push my luck and see if you could maybe :3 I want to get one for my love, wlawther18@gmail.com

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  20. William,

    No, not only will I likely never make one again, but my fibromyalgia has kept me from doing hardly any sewing for 8 months now. I'm hoping to publish some sewing guides at some point to help people who want to make their own, but I will not be recreating them myself.

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    1. I am so sorry to hear this. You are so talented, and nobody deserves to go through that. I have been looking for someone to make me this exact cloak, for a wile now. I have the fabric, thanks to your link!=) However I am absolutely terrified that they will not be able to make it as well as you have done in the past. I want the un-repaired version. And I would need it by October 6th. Iwas hoping that you could possibly contact me and send me some more information about the hood and the rest of the cloak so that he/she could get it right. Pleas please pleas get back to me if you could. It would mean so much to me to have this cloak done as well as you have made it.

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    2. my email is k.g.mondore@clasnet.sunyocc.edu

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  21. Would you care to let me know where you got the pattern for the cloak (with hood) at? My grandmother is really good at sewing and I'm going to try and get her to make this for me. Also what kind of fabric did you line this with and will it be good and warm to wear around outside in the middle of winter? Thank you!!

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  22. hello , thise is the most beautyfull cloak i have ever seen , i am not asking you to make one but my problem is i llive in the netherlands and this fabric site i think is only shipping to u.s , so my question is do they sell to the netherlands and if not do you know a site whith this fabric that ships worldwide ? thanks p.s can you share your pattern whith me becouse your cloak rock ! many greetings from the netherlands

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  23. Hi Elizabeth, That is so beautiful cloak. Would you share the pattern with me, please? Or even tell how many pieces did you make it from? I'm trying to make wool cloak to my self for the cold winter and saw your amazing cloak that I fell love with. I would be so grateful to you if you could share your pattern.
    Here is my email magia(at)rock.com

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  24. Hi, I absolutely am in love with this cloak, ruby has always been my favorite on the show, and I've always have wanted to be her for Halloween however I am a boy so I can't really wear her dress and everything but I have been looking for the perfect cloak, and your ruffled cloak is by far the best I have ever seen, now I know you don't do commissions any more and I'm not asking for one I was just hoping that maybe you could share a pattern for the ruffled cloak if you have one so that me and my grandmother could attempt to recreate this beauty that you have created, if you could help I would much appreciate it, my email is rondaheart(at)gmail.com, thank you!

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  25. Hello. I was wonder if you could email me the patter for the cloak? thebibliophile2003@gmail.com I love Once Upon A Time, and have been searching for sometime for Ruby's cloak.

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  26. Hi there, I was hoping you might be willing to share your patten so I might have a reputable seamstress do the commission for me. I'm very sorry about your ailments preventing you from creating. Very devastating that someone with so much talent can't do what they're capable of. I have been dying for this cloak and when I originally found the post I was 18 and broke beyond belief. I will definitely hunt someone down, but if you know of anyone willing to take on the challenge on Long Island, NY, I would also appreciate the info.

    AprillynnLatham @ gmail . Com

    ReplyDelete

Welcome to the discussion! Please note that due to chronic illness, I am no longer taking commissions of any kind.

Thank you for being polite and profanity free :)